Before the storm — the prep checklist
Once a named storm enters the Gulf with Baldwin County in the cone, run through this list. None of it is hard; skipping it is what produces most post-storm HVAC failures.
- Shut the AC system OFF at both breakers (indoor air handler + outdoor condenser disconnect) before the storm hits. Don't just turn it off at the thermostat — kill the power.
- Confirm the outdoor unit is clear of objects that can become projectiles in 60+ mph wind. Patio furniture, planters, garden tools, propane tanks, anything not bolted down should be moved or secured.
- Trim any large limbs hanging directly over the outdoor unit. A falling limb is the only legitimate physical risk to the unit during a storm.
- Photograph the equipment and serial number plates before the storm. Insurance claims for damaged equipment go faster with pre-storm documentation.
- Pre-cool the home to 70-72°F in the hours before the storm hits. This builds thermal mass against the warm-up period when power is out.
- Replace the air filter if it's been more than 30 days. The AC will work harder during the post-storm restart; clean filter helps it succeed.
- Stock fresh batteries for the thermostat (smart thermostats lose programming on dead batteries) and any remote temperature sensors.
- If you have a Comfort Plan or storm-response tag, confirm we have current contact info. We prioritize those customers in post-storm routing.
During the storm — what to leave alone
- Don't run the AC during the storm itself. Power cycling damages compressors and burns capacitors faster than any other failure mode in our climate.
- Don't run the AC on portable generators unless the generator is rated for inductive loads (5,000+ watts continuous, clean sine wave inverter generators preferred). Standard household generators damage HVAC compressors.
- Open interior doors to allow passive cross-ventilation if temperatures climb. Two-story homes — open the upstairs windows only after wind drops below tropical-storm strength.
- Listen for water intrusion at the indoor air handler if it's in an attic or closet — a roof leak above the air handler can flood the unit and short the controls.
After the storm — the safe restart
- Wait for stable grid power. Don't restart the AC during the first 6-12 hours after power returns — the grid is still re-establishing and will flicker. Each flicker damages the compressor a little more.
- Inspect the outdoor unit visually. Look for debris in the coil fins, missing fan blade fragments, water in the electrical compartment, displaced pad. If anything looks wrong, leave the breaker off and call us.
- Check the line set. If a tree limb damaged the refrigerant lines (insulation torn, copper kinked, oil staining the foam), don't restart — refrigerant has likely escaped, and running the system will overheat the compressor.
- Restore power one breaker at a time. Outdoor disconnect first, indoor air handler breaker second. Listen for unusual sounds — fan motor binding, compressor hard-start, capacitor whine.
- Set the thermostat 8-10°F above current room temperature. Don't ask the system to cool a 90°F house down to 72°F immediately. Set 78-80°F first; let the home cool gradually over 2-4 hours.
- Watch for warning signs. Cool air should start coming from vents within 15 minutes. If the system runs for an hour without cooling, or if you hear unusual sounds, kill the breaker and call us — continuing to run a damaged system multiplies repair cost.
Post-storm symptoms that need diagnosis
- AC was running fine before the storm and won't start now (lightning damage to control board or capacitor)
- Outdoor compressor hums loudly but the fan doesn't spin (failed run capacitor — common post-storm failure)
- System short-cycles on and off rapidly (failed contactor or thermostat issue)
- Cool air for 5-10 minutes then warm air (refrigerant charge issue from a damaged line set)
- Loud grinding or scraping from outdoor unit (debris in fan blade or fan motor bearing damage)
- Water on the floor near the indoor unit (overflowed condensate from days of disuse + storm humidity)
FAQs
- Should I cover or wrap my outdoor AC unit before a hurricane?
- No. Outdoor AC units are designed to handle wind and rain — they're not the vulnerable component in a storm. What you actually want to do is shut the system off at the breaker before the storm hits to protect the compressor and electronics from voltage spikes. Tarps trap moisture and cause more harm than they prevent.
- What's the biggest hurricane risk to my HVAC system?
- Power-cycling damage from intermittent power loss during the storm. The grid flickers on and off as transformers blow and substations switch over — each restart slugs the compressor with refrigerant it can't handle, and burns out capacitors. Killing the breaker before the storm and not restoring it until power is fully stable is the single most important thing you can do.
- When is it safe to turn my AC back on after a storm?
- Wait until grid power has been stable for at least 6-12 hours. If your home was on generator during the storm and the AC ran on generator, that's typically fine (clean sine wave generators). If grid power has been flickering, give it the stable window before restarting central HVAC. Then start at a higher setpoint (78-80°F) and let the system come up to load gradually rather than asking it to cool the house from 90°F down to 72°F at once.
- Do you respond to HVAC calls right after a hurricane?
- Yes. ACExperts prioritizes Comfort Plan members and tagged storm-response customers in the days after any named storm event. We also keep extra inventory of the most common post-storm failure parts (capacitors, contactors, control boards) so we aren't waiting on supply chain when call volume spikes.
Comfort Plan = post-storm priority
In the 48-72 hours after a named storm hits Baldwin County, every contractor in the area runs at capacity. Comfort Plan members get prioritized routing — we tag your file for storm response so you don't wait at the back of the queue.